Adventures in the City

So, hello there!

I'm writing this from the Peace Corps office in Paramaribo after a week in said city. A lovely week, really. Food, fun, and foot infections! Last part not so lovely, but thoroughly deal-with-able.

Anyway, it's been a good time in the city and I'll break this up into 3 bits.

1. Friends

It's really really cool to see the rest of the Volunteers. We don't all love each other, but it's cool as we start to figure out who we actively like and who we are just ok with - everybody is basically fine with each other, even if they don't seek out a specific person's company - and that makes it a pretty solid group. Plus everyone is generally pretty positive, supportive, and sensitive with a good mix of wild and creative that makes for fun get togethers.

Also, it's really cool staying with Jose - my best friend's father's friend who happens to own a business (and have a really nice house) here in Suriname. He reminds me of a mixture of Andy's dad, Dan, and a solid shot of European - in other words, he's pretty cool. Very well informed, well traveled, and generally just interesting to talk to - we don't agree on every point but I learn something interesting regardless of what we are talking about.

He has a very nice house - king size bed! with AC! - and is a very good cook and just a very good host. Sort of all the best parts of a total dude and a helpful, nice guy. Doesn't sleep much so it makes for some late nights, but generally worth staying up for.

2. 21 Kilometers

I ran a half marathon! My first ever, but I would definitely do it again! I don't feel the need to go for a full, but still I had a great time! I did not push myself too hard and it went really well. The whole build up to it was a lot of fun - something to train for is always good to keep you motivated in exercise so that was nice. And then it was a big to-do in the city and all that, and the race itself was awesome!

I started off with my running buddy from training - she's a more experienced but solidly slower runner than I am but that's helped since she and I have run all my record-breaking long distances together. We hung together for the first 15ish kilometers with several other people - including a random spanish guy - popping in for anywere from 2-13 of those ks.

I trained pretty hard and so I was feeling great the whole race - I had breath and energy to cheer and joke as we passed check points, cops, and the occasional crowd of spectators. So I decided that I wanted to try to catch the guy in 3rd place for Peace Corps (my friend and I were 4th and 5th at that point). Around when I was thinking about this, a little kid conveniently started acting like he wanted to race (a bored 5-year old spectator) and so I waved goodbye to my buddy and raced the kid for a hundred meters and then kept on going at a good clip.

We were about 5k out at that point and I managed to catch my man with about 2 kilometers to go. I was starting to feel it at that point, but still having fun and so I was wavering if I should finish with him or keep pushing on. Fortunately, at that moment an older lady that I had passed a bit ago caught up to me and passed me! She was clearly experienced and had her goal in mind or whatever so I made it mine to beat her!

We were step for step for the next kilometer and with 1 to go, I clipped it up again and was able to lose her. By this point, I was really feeling it - especially because the sun was long down and I was drenched with sweat so I was actually getting slightly chilled. I just tried to talk myself into the idea that the chill was just runners' high and kept on going. Plus, by that point there was starting to be a crowd and everybody likes to finish strong and that goes double if there are spectators!

I always try to sprint the last bit of a run, but this was one pretty long run! Still, gotta have some style so I started to get psyched up and then I got perfectly lucky. Just as I came into view of the finish line - a little over 100 meters out - I saw a guy halfway between me and the line. I didn't have to even think, I just took off sprinting to try and cross before he did. I made across about 20 feet in front of him, fists in the air, and 1:59:58 on the clock!

So it was a lot of fun!

3. Work

I'll include in this medical and developmental stuff - since it's all kind of part of my job here.

My health in the lead up to the city was solid, except that I got a really bad blister on my heel while training for the marathon. I was planning to do 2-3 big jungle runs before heading into the city - each one a jungle half marathon - but after I did the first one I was so drained, and so blistered, that I only did it once. Fortunately, it turns out that a jungle half marathon is way harder than a city half marathon and so I was in good shape for the race, but I was also fairly worried about my feel. I had that blister, several smaller ones one various toes, and I randomly managed to get 2 infected ant bites during normal life in the week leading up to the race.

I was most worried about the blister, but surprisingly all that stuff was fine during and after the race - but the weird toe nail infection I've been fighting (despite the fact that it seemed to be gone just now) decided to come back after the race and I also got an ear infection. Nothing major, but very annoying!

Anyway, my goal in the city was to finish my funding proposal for the Adult Education Program and get started on the next thing - landings for the village. I didn't get much of a start on that, but I did finish that first funding proposal! Very exciting! I haven't heard back anything as of the moment that I am publishing this, but still! Ground broken! I'm officially all Peace Corpsing and whatnot!

And that, my friends, is that!

Adventures with Friends

So it's the week before I go back to the city and there is some scrambling to get things prepped to go, but there's also a giant awesome ceremony called Limba Pasi - so why not have a giant sleep over party!

Pikin Slee is traditional enough and big enough to be a pretty cool place to visit - and of course has yours truly hanging out in it. So now that people are getting comfortable on the river and in their homesites, they are starting to explore - I know I want to start doing so soon myself!

So my 3 closest neighbors came to visit and one other girl who is a good friend but a bit farther away. Jonathan is my closest closest neighbor and I see him about once a week but we don't see the others that often since they are a boat ride away instead of walkable.

Jonathan didn't spend the night, but the 3 girls did - and man was it crowded! Or, I suppose, woman was it crowded! 3 hammocks, one cot, and a whole lot of junk. We went through an insane amount of food - fortunately I am well stocked. They ate an ENTIRE JAR of Nutella. Much of it with a spoon. People get crazy out here. I go through a fair amount of peanut butter (because it's good on everything and sometimes you need the protein, fat, and salt if I've only been eating my own cooking for a while straight), but other people can't keep it in the house or they just destroy it.

Thanks to those of you who are helping me stay supplied with other yummy snackables so I can steer clear of spooning my staples to death. I miss spooning.

So anyway, it was pretty cool. I got to show off my village to some friends and that was really fun! It made me realize how many people I know and how much I have settled into the community. Also, showing people around was better and worse than I thought - we got mobbed and (relatively pleasantly) harassed quite a bit. People were friendly and not too aggressive (with a few exceptions), but the mobbing is going to be worse when Ariel comes to visit. I think the aggressiveness - in terms of people hitting on the girls anyway - should be better. So hopefully it will balance out and be good. A bit nervous

But yeah - having visitors is really fun. It helps you see your daily life through new eyes. This was my second time seeing the ceremony but it was still very cool for me. Evil spirits (people in masks), traditional drumming and dancing, and lots of food and drink. I had 4 shots of rum before 10am that day. Rough, but fun. 3 of those were poured from the bottle into my mouth by grandmothers. That's just kinda how it goes...

So it was pretty cool to be out and about in the village with people. It was also cool to hang out around my house. It made me appreciate my set up quite a bit - both the work I've done (shelves, organizational stuff, other small improvements) and what the people did before I came (building stuff, garden, garden again). Apparently I have a pretty nice place, relatively speaking - I was pretty sure of that anyway but always nice to get re-affirmed. All said, I feel really lucky to be in my village.

The other thing that made it fun was just hanging out with some new(ish) people. Jonathan came for one day, but the girls stayed for 2 nights so it was a lot of girl talk but we all know I'm ok with that. Really, it was very cool to share perspectives on Peace Corps and life and you know boys and clothes and all that. In some ways Peace Corps does occasionally feel like all the best (and occasionally the worst) parts of summer camp - that goes on for 2 years.

This was definitely one of the best though. Deepening friendships, realizing what you have and have made for yourself is good, and generally having fun while broadening your experience of life.

Not a bad way to roll into a week in the city, though definitely feeling a small step behind on some stuff! Still, there is time. But time to focus on work will come soon.

Request Line!

Hey guys!

And final post of this scattershot shotgun sandblast of posting. Look at me! I can alliterate! A little!

Anyway!

Several people have asked me about animal life here in the jungle. And man is there animal life...and bug life. Ants. Ants are the worst by far. They bite you and it hurts. And then they keep chewing! Seriously, they are bad. Cockroaches are a bit gross but not bad, same with centipedes and the like. Gnats and little annoying flies can drive you insane but aren't too bad, but let's get down to the good stuff - coolest animal encounters so far in Peace Corps.

1. The Sloth. You probably saw this story in an earlier post so I won't say too much, but basically I saved a sloth's life. Yup. Me (and several other people). Rescued it from death and dogs with broom sticks and dutch courage. Yup. Sloths are awesome.

2. That baby boa constrictor one guy almost stepped on. A fellow PCV was hosting me for a few nights and he was texting as we walked around his village at night (the future is everywhere!). He finished and turned on his flashlight just in time to NOT step on a beautiful baby boa constrictor moseying across the path.

3. Dead Electric Eel. Would be tops if it was still alive, but instead it was dead in a fishing net I set with my friend Edua. Less dead were the giant Piranha which are somewhere around 7 on this list. They are awesome and scary! There teeth are the size of our teeth and a big one could probably get it's mouth around your wrist. The first thing you do when you catch one is break it's jaw - even before you beat/stab/etc it to death

4. Scorpions. One was on my porch the other day and a while back we came across a family of them in the jungle while digging for mulch. As you may know, scorpions are like peppers- the smaller the more burney. Fortunately, my friend killed the mulchey ones with his machete and I killed the one walking across my porch with a bucket. Neither was bigger than my pinky and I don't like hot peppers anyway.

5. Dead Caiman. Caiman are kind of baby-ish crocidiles? Bigger than an iguana and...you know...crocidile shape. I passed two floating belly up in a stream I run by. They didn't smell good. Haven't seen any live or near any water I hang out in. I'm ok with that.

6. Jaguar. Why, you might ask, is the Jaguar number 6? Because I haven't seen one yet! It's the most famous jungle animal around here and I'm torn between wanting to see one...and not. I mean mostly I want to see one, but I don't want to fight one!

I'll leave it at 7.

Request #2

I've heard that some people have been wondering how I make delicious banana breads and cakes and what not. For Banana bread, I basically just Bmiss Ariel a lot and then squeeze really hard and out pops tastey goodness! Cake comes in a box, so I just follow directions. The doughboy lives here too, duh.

Oh but how do I bake suck tastedy goodness things? Why, in a Dutch Oven! Now, apparently, this is not a snicker-inducing phrase to many people. But it is to me and I'm only just starting to be able to say it with a straight face. It's a fart joke. We'll just leave it at that. I still can't say the Saramaccan word for cat. Just can't. In other news, can you think of a four letter word where the second letter is u? Duty!

So, whatever it is back home, out here a Dutch oven is a temporary contraption that you assembly out of items in your household when you feel like baking. Basically, I take my largest pot (all pots are relatively heavy metal here, so it works) and I put a baking pan inside that. I found a nice non-stick one in the city for SRD$20 that fits perfectly. The trick is, it can't touch the outside pot directly on any surface. Mine fits so perfectly that I had to bring my big pot to the the cake pan store to make sure it would work.

To keep it from touching the bottom, I made a quadpod of. legs out of folded/coiled aluminum foil. The lid of my pot has a tight seal which is necessary, but it loses a lot of heat at the center (maybe because of the handle?) Some PCVs recommend covering the pot with towels to reduce that and I've done that - I've also singed my towels. So now I put one towel just over the center and then put the lid of my other small pot on top of that - twice the fun, half the flammability.

And there you have it - a baking device for any kitchen!

And finally....Request 3! Food.

Food fantasies are a reality. When I would cut weight on the TKD team they generally revolved around quantity - leading to many silly eating challenges. Do you know how tired your jaw gets trying to eat 1.5 pounds of boneless chicken wings in 15 minutes?

Out here, you tend to get fixated on specific foods rather than obscene quantites of random food like objects. And thus, I started writing letters. I sent one to Oreo, Clif Bars, Odwalla, and Chipotle. Here's the one I sent to Odwalla, for your reading pleasure! As you can see it's half joking, half sales pitch, half cry for help, and half...well I'd say just plain over the top but I'm out of halves.

.....

Dear Odwalla,

I miss you so. I am a Peace Corps Volunteer currently serving in the Amazonian jungle of Suriname, South America and you are one of the pieces of home I miss the most. The tasty, nutrious joy that is your juices and bars knows no bounds - but unfortunately your sales territory and my budget do. I left you for a good cause and I'm proud to be a Volunteer, especially as a member of the 50th class of the Peace Corps, but I'm sorry I left you nonetheless and I hope you forgive me.

Most of my fellow Volunteers swear by the Clif bar as the king of the care package, but I know better. You are just as hardy and can handle the heat, humidity, and tough travel conditions of jungle life, but your taste is simply unmatched in my eyes (and mouth!) You are a luxury and a taste of home, as well as a blast of intense nutrition, in a life that often lacks these things. Though the rainforest is bursting with plant life, the local diet is often sadly deficient in fresh fruits and vegetables. As a Volunteer, I live at the standard of living of my community and it is my job to help improve that for all of us.

Care packages from home that contain little things like you go such a long way to keep me going and moving towards the goals of the Peace Corps - working together with my community on sustainable development while spreading peace and friendship. It's the little things that help you maintain that all-important positive attitude and one bar can make the difference between a tough day where you feel beaten down and a great one where you can recognize obstacles as opportunties.

So thank you for being there. I only wish you were here, because I miss you! I know I'm the one that left you, but still. If you are able to, you have no idea how big an impact a care package from you would make to me. And, if possible, maybe you could even throw in something for the other volunteers here to help me bring them to reason.

Thanks again,

Evan Delahanty

Peace Corps Volunteer

Pikin Slee, Suriname

c. 011 597 718 5227

Peace Corps Suriname

PO BOX 9500

Franchepanestraat 12-16

Paramaribo, Suriname

South America

I'm GLOWing!

No, I didn't find a uranium deposit and I'm not pregnant. They way I go to the bathroom sometimes, however, I almost feel like....well let's just leave that there. There's something called Peace Corps Butt and I've never had it but I can imagine it.

Moving on.

So starting committees and getting people talking and moving is part of what helped jumpstart me after the overwhelmingly awesome party and slightly unrealistic expectations of some of those people around me.

The other two parts were seeing how I can absolutely change lives here without a single cent. During the training, we received HIV education visual aids that several of the PCVs made together with a Surinamese artist. Up there with the paper clip and rolling luggage, they are one of the most brilliant things I have seen.

The idea was pretty simple - people understand things better when they are presented in a culturally appropriate way. In this case, that means something that doesn't require reading and has people and activities in the picture that look like the audience. So these PCVs got together and made hand-illustrated cards that show local people doing local activities to explain how HIV is transmitted and what you can do about it. They directly address local worries - like if you poop next to someone that has HIV, will you get it? If a mosquito bites them and then you, will you get it?

And they work. I've had them for two weeks and I've had two amazingly spontaneous and comfortable discussions with small groups of young men hanging out on my porch. A common question when you come back from the city is, "So what good did you find there?" When somebody asked me, I pulled out the cards and we went from there. You know they are good because, after I go through them and put them down, the guys snatch them up to go through them again more slowly - and they don't need me to explain it, even though their level of knowledge is not that good.

That, my friends, is lives changed. And brilliant marketing, too. These people have a lot of HIV awareness money thrown at them, but I'd be willing to bet that the $100 those PCVs paid the local artist will buy more awareness than a couple thousand bucks worth of seminars based around a foreign curriculum. Well played and I provided feedback up the chain on that one.

Number two, and a big one here, was Camp Glow. That is why I've a bit behind on blog posts. I helped out a week long camp for Sixth grade girls called Girls Leading Our World. It's a Peace Corps female empowerment camp that is done according to a basic model all over the world, though of course (as expected from above) every iteration is heavily modified to fit local needs.

It was only about 30 girls for 4 days, but wow. You could almost see those girls' lives changing for the better in front of your eyes. I hope that doesn't sound arrogant or...anything bad. Man, my vocabulary is tanking. But just think about the scenario.

First, we at least doubled the size of these girls' world. Most had never been outside their village before or slept away from home. Second, we spent time asking them what they want to do and telling them they can do it. That doesn't happen here. Not like this - not with female role models (and respectful males) of all stripes hitting the points again and again. And third, above all, we spent all the time in between telling them how.

It was a pretty powerful experience. Girls know they should stay in school - but why and how gets glossed over. We helped them connect the dots in some of those basics that we take for granted in the States. Goal setting isn't a given here - people live in the subsistence cycle and that means there isn't always time to take a step back and see how you can get a leg up.

The change from day 1 - a bunch of scared, quiet girls not sure of themselves - to day 4 - girls with new friends and new ideas and a new sense of possibility was incredible.

I still want to do the tangible projects that have metrics and bullet points and all that. But I know really see the other side of how we can change lives here. I never doubted it exactly, but now I've seen and been a part of it in a big way. And I get to do it again next week. I'm going to be taking more of a leadership role in a Boy's camp based around the same concept (we decided against calling it Boy's Leading Our World, however). The goal is to be on the leadership committee for the ones coming up in spring. I'm excited at the prospect.

Alright Then

Hello there, my friends. How's it going?

It's going well here, though I've been in a slight amount of a funk the last week or so - probably because of all the excitement of the previous weeks! Not bad to have a slow week, now and then. Still, higher gears can and will be reached. We've already started actually, though it's been raining a lot recently and that has a way of...sloooowwwwwinnnggggggg things down.

Anyway, I'll try to cram a bunch into this one, so bear with me.

After the training in the city, I rushed back for the Pikin Slee event of the decade - the Museum grand opening party. The Museum really is the crown jewel of Saramacca land, as I've taken to calling it. I would say it's a solid step above a small town museum to antique farming/random famous guy/whatever battle was fought there - which is pretty impressive given the context. The rastas built it from the ground up and they did a good job.

They did not, however, do it alone and that was evident at the party. Basically everybody that was at the training conference (counterparts, organizations, etc) was at the party. Probably close to 500 people for a 3 day event. Food, drinks, live music, traditional dancing, spectator sports, community sports, and even a movie! A documentary about Pikin Slee made this past July.

I generally helped, networked, and soaked up free stuff as much as possible. What I didn't do was sleep very much, but what can you do. It was an awesome event - by far the most impressive thing I've seen in Suriname. Not only did they create an awesome product, but they threw a great party to celebrate it. It was a lot of money on celebration.

At first, that made me feel a bit off. But, the more I thought about it, the more it made me realize just how worth celebrating this accomplishment really is. And the celebration helps bring attention to it - for the people that did it and for everyone else to realize they can do it to. And that's pretty important here. Still, 6 ministers of government (including the VP), numerous television and other news media (I even did a brief radio interview), and a helicopter. Yes, there was a helicopter.

In short, it was so good it was almost depressing. Combined with the Captain's idea that our first project has to be a solar panel for every household in Pikin Slee, I was feeling a bit overwhelmed. I will probably never throw an event that good as a Peace Corps Volunteer. The budget for that party had to be larger than the average Peace Corps project. Needless to say, a solar panel in every house is also a bit out of scope - that's 1000+ panels at US$1000+ a pop.

So I felt a bit lost for a few days. But then a couple of things happened to help me out. The first was doing the other 2/3s of my job - getting out and talking to people. Because, as you'll see if you read my report, people here haven't actually been talking to me about a solar chicken in every pot. It's about more basic infrastructure stuff.

Oddly, water has kind of fallen off the map (I've heard rumors of a government project that was abandoned a few years back being restarted), but fixing the jetties that are the village's access points to the river is bubbling up. And so I did my best to Peace Corps the problem. Afterall, it isn't my job to do development projects here - it's my job to help the village develop themselves. And that means dialogue. Organization. Committees. Bureaucracy! About the only benefit of bureaucracy I can think of is that it makes it tough for one person to set a radical agenda.

So I spent the next week or so working on starting all the groups I've been saying I might start. Not just because of the solar panel thing, of course, but that is certainly a factor. So now I have an English Group, a Youth Group, a Pre School group kind of randomly formed and I jumped in with it, and I'm getting ready to start the Business Group. I've also convinced the Captain and several other key players that we need to start a Development Steering Committee to talk about larger projects (like solar power for the entire village or jetties or water). Not much has happened with that one yet, but the agreement is there.

So I'm excited about the prospects. I'll get into the other two reasons in my next post. But I want to briefly digress, as I do so often, into a discussion of radical ideas. The museum was a radical idea. I just found out that my captain here (I've only got one Captain and it's Paul) won some international award for his advocacy for native land rights here in Suriname. His name is Wanze and I haven't googled it yet, but apparently it's kind of a big deal.

So should I really be stepping on the big dreams of a village and it's leaders that have actually achieved some big things? Their winning some of those land rights in the international courts right now. The last thing I want is to stand in the way of a vision. And Evan likes to aim big. Why not aim for solar power? I mean I can see ways that it might happen. But I don't think that's the best use of PCV-me's resources. Something that big is political and Captain Wanze has political clout - or at least is working on it base on that award and the direction the court case is taking. I'm here to help improve the daily standard of living.

Incremental improvement is what I did for the last 4 years. It isn't as much fun as dreaming of 24x7 green power. But I don't think that's the way I'm going to rock people's world here. There are other ways, and you'll read about them in the next post!

radical agenda - but they can!